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Brussels 2004We took Eurostar, leaving Waterloo in the early hours, arriving in Brussels at lunch time. Our hotel was good and central, close to the Grand Place and, once checked in, we set off for a guided tour of the city, with stops at selected bars along the way. And that, basically, was the pattern for the weekend. Between us we visited most of the renowned bars - such as a la Becasse and Mort Subite - and sampled a wide range of the many and varied Belgian ales on offer. One of my favourite bars was the Poechnenellkelder (Puppet Cellar), close to the Mannekin Pis, a typically eccentric place with a helpful beer list with 45 varieties on offer. On Saturday morning we took our hangovers to the Brasserie/Brouwerij Cantillon (this is a bilingual city). This is a family business, more than 100 years old, producing tradition Iambic beers. It's a 'do it yourself tour - you get a leaflet in the language of your choice and follow the signs around the small compact site. Although all the beers will ultimately be bottled, they are matured in chestnut or oak pipes (650 I) or hogsheads (250 I) and there is an impressive array of these casks to see. At the end of the tour you get small samples of a gueuze (a blend of lambics) and a kriek (made by macerating cherries in 2 year old lambic for up to 6 months. I have to admit that these are not my favourite styles of beers, but it's good to know these traditions survive. We arrived back at Waterloo (the station, not the battlefield) in the Monday evening rush hour, with sore heads but thoroughly entertained and enlightened.
Roger Jacobson
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